Surviving India – our first trip to Delhi and Kashmir
I went to India for a very specific purpose; my debut novel, The Yard, was being launched in New Delhi by Speaking Tiger Books, and the event was planned for mid-June. I’d never been to India before and neither had my husband (despite us being East Indian) who agreed to accompany me.
In truth, you cannot prepare a Westerner for Delhi. There are no words or imagery to express the reality of being on the ground there for the first time. June is the hottest time of year so the temperature outside when we landed was 41° Celsius. We grabbed our bags and booked a taxi at the airport—several agencies were hustling for our business—and found ourselves outside in the heavy air. We got into the taxi and dust blew across our faces in honking traffic as we maneuvered to our hotel.
Just accept it…and enjoy…
You can’t escape dust in Delhi. So prepare to hold your breath initially until you adjust and begin to breathe normally. You also cannot escape blaring horns in traffic—our taxi driver literally honked his horn all the way to our destination. This is just the way it is…so relax…
A cultural hub and divine food
We checked into India Habitat Centre (IHC) on Lodhi Road, close to the famous Lodhi Gardens, where my editor at Speaking Tiger suggested I stay, as her guest under her membership. IHC is a cultural hub in the capital—not your regular hotel for a tourist experience but a select place for intellectuals, artists, performers, writers etc. Here, I felt at home.
Notably, the members’ only restaurant Delhi O Delhi served the most sumptuous complimentary breakfasts and the most divine buffet dinners. We ate there every day! The dessert bar was the most satisfying with its Gulab Jamun, Aam Shrikhand and Phirni. These Indian desserts are perhaps what we’ll miss most. 🙂
The first evening I arrived, I met the publicist from Speaking Tiger who’d scheduled all my meetings with the press and updated me on the program for the book launch. She was the first person on Indian soil (excluding the cab driver and hotel reception clerk) I actually had a conversation with and I found her to be very warm and welcoming. My love affair with the people I’d meet began there.
Our first excursion – Jama Masjid
Several days later, on my first break, my husband and I took a taxi to Jama Masjid. We passed the stunning India Gate with its wide promenade and majestic government buildings. But one can sense just when they enter Old Delhi.
Old Delhi
This is the older part of Delhi, with its ancient rundown buildings, narrower lanes, street vendors and a sense of permanent chaos (and of course, the taxi driver honked all the way there).
Jama Masjid
In the vicinity of Jama Masjid, slum areas abound, and on the inside poor folk assemble, some lying down in shaded areas. Once we climb the steps to the mosque, we’re asked to remove our shoes before we enter the large courtyard. We do so, walking on dusty paved grounds (again, something we’re not used to in the West – but you get accustom to this).
The mosque sits at the rear of the courtyard, adorned with three huge onion-shaped domes upon the roof. But, what fascinated us about this place – again – is the people. A deaf-mute man approaches to give the grand tour. Of course, he can’t speak a word of English but his hand gestures are sufficient to ascertain his meaning. He walks us through the courtyard, volunteering to take photos of us against the majestic building. He squats as he takes the photos, knees pulled to his chest.
Jama Masjid
True, people approach you randomly here, to offer services for tips, and we did tip this stranger. But there was a sense of heart in his overall interaction with us, and his love for this masjid was evident.
The launch of ‘The Yard’
Paradise in Kashmir
After the book launch, we had three free days, and flew to Kashmir for two nights. We stayed in a beautiful houseboat, Naaz Kashmir, on the serene Nigeen Lake. We were instantly engrossed with this beautiful, magical and mystical location – with its still lakes, snow capped mountains, and calls-to-prayer melodiously reverberating from nearby mosques and hilltops. We awoke to the sounds of birds, and lovely home cooked breakfasts. This was an entirely different experience from the bustling streets of Delhi.
Kashmir
But there are some things I wish we’d understood before we went to Kashmir, which would have made our stay a little more pleasant. There are hustlers everywhere. This could be said about every place in India. However, we didn’t expect salesmen to come unto the boat where we stayed. This sort of invasion would never happen at your regular hotel and was a little disconcerting. We quickly realized we had to be firm with sales people, who’d bully you into buying things you didn’t need. Yes, we bought some goods (including a hand woven carpet!) to support the local economy, but this level of hustling can detract from a relaxing experience. If we were forewarned and forearmed, we’d have known better to ignore, and enjoy!
Kashmir
The best moment…
Kashmir
Aside from reading passages from my novel, The Yard, to the guests at my book launch, and meeting my editor and publishers for the first time, the best part of the trip was perhaps the excursion to the scenic mountain town, Sonmarg — the take off station for the drive to Ladakh across the Zojila, a major pass in the Great Himalayan Range. My husband and I sat on the station hillside looking up at the Himalayas, a calm, treasured and romantic moment we’d remember forever. I wish we’d gone further to Ladakh to witness its unique landscape; but there’s always another time. 🙂
Leave A Comment